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questions about railway sleepers

Frequently Asked Questions about Railway Sleepers...

How do you fasten railway sleepers together ?
How accurate are the sizes of railway sleepers ?
What are railway sleepers treated with ?
How can you tell the difference between various grades of railway sleepers ?
How can I clean creosote and muck off the surface of railway sleepers?

HOW DO YOU FASTEN SLEEPERS TOGETHER?

Everyday we get enquiries from customers asking how to bolt together railway sleepers & large timbers. In the past we'd have mentioned coach bolts and pre-drilling, and socket sets etc.. NOW we always say 'TimberLok'.

I know that that seems really cheesy, like 'I always use Persil to remove those stubborn stains', but genuinely they ARE fantastic. We had a visit from one of Timberlok's agents, & tried to set them the hardest tests we could, after the screws easily went through pine - To drill through pieces of Oak, Jarrah, & African Azobe (so tough it feels like metal !). The screws STILL went in, albeit with more of a struggle. Seriously, they are great, so long as you have a drill that is very powerful - high torque and low speed, AND you allow for pre-drilling the railway sleepers with a pilot hole.

TimberLok - the hardsell... !
- installs much faster and easier than coach screws or coach bolts
- generally requires no pre-drilling, except for particularly tough tropical hardwoods and sometimes oak railway sleepers.
- countersinks flush into timber
- draws warped beams down
- can be removed and reused
- eliminates jarring and damage caused by a sledge hammer

TimberLok's screws are guaranteed not to rust in pressure treated timber for the life of you project, although it doesn't apply in saltwater settings. Likewise a small percentage of screws may eventually rust when in connection with the tannins of green oak railway sleepers.
TimberLok's clear 'anti-friction topcoat' allows it to penatrate the hardest wood more easily than other screws.The agent went on about titanium and the space rocket or something.. Hi-tec you see...!          

HOW TO BUY TIMBERLOK SCREWS

How accurate are the sizes of RAILWAY sleepers ?

ALL DIMENSIONS ARE APPROXIMATE !! THEY ARE NOT A PRECISE SUBJECT MATTER !!
e.g. an 8' 6" railway sleeper may vary in length, by an inch or so, and a 150mm thick sleeper may indeed be 140mm.
In addition, some railway sleepers are not cut perfectly square at the ends, which makes them hard to measure accurately.
SO, ALLOW SOME LEAWAY in your precise calculations, and allow for trimming or creativity if necessary!
This may be frustrating to those who love exactness in the world !
I guess there are some things in life which we just can't control !!

What are railway sleepers treated with ?

1) CREOSOTE TREATMENT - used for over 150 years to lengthen life of timber.
2) 'GREEN' PRESSURE TREATMENT - the latest 'environmentally friendly' pressure treatment.
3) UNTREATED - some tropical hardwoods are naturally long lasting, & hence need no treatment

USED RAILWAY SLEEPERS are normally either
a) Creosote treated, e.g. used Dutch Oak and used British pine, or
b) Untreated, e.g. used Australian Jarrah and used African Azobe sleepers. Even though a used railway sleeper is untreated there can occasionally be deposits of oil or diesel on the surface which have fallen from passing trains over the years (not to mention other things!) 

NEW RAILWAY SLEEPERS are normally either
a) Green treated  e.g. new British softwood railway sleepers. These are environmentally friendly non-creosote based preservatives, with treatment names such as ACQ, Tanalith E, Osmose or Wolmanit, all of which are suitable for landscaping projects, or
b) Untreated, e.g. new French or Canadian oak sleepers

For more IN DEPTH information about CREOSOTE and railway sleeper treatments, CLICK HERE!

WHAT IS the difference between various grades of RAILWAY sleepers ?

GRADING RAILWAY SLEEPERS IS NOT AN EXACT SCIENCE !
Deciding with certainty what is a relay grade, grade 1, grade 2 or grade 3 is inevitably subjective, and there is no universally accepted system of grading, throughout the UK, Europe, or the rest of the Universe. There are so many variables in grading old reclaimed railway sleepers, especially between different types of hardwood and softwood, that it is hard to generalise or make universal statements about different grades of railway sleepers. For example, a grade 2 used British Pine is generally straight, whereas a grade 2 used Dutch oak is often slightly bent! If you were being cynical, you'd probably suspect that railway sleeper companies classify a railway sleeper with as high a grade as they can get away with! But of course, that would be slanderous!

Always look at our railway sleeper photos, if you are unsure of what to expect, or give us a ring. It is best to be clear about what you may be getting, rather than chosing something that doesn't fit into your grand design.
General descriptions:
Relay grade
Thse are the best condition. Often able to be re-used on the railway track
1st grade
Good condition. Generally squarer, straighter, with fewer cracks.
2nd grade
Reasonably good, but with more imperfections and irregularities. They are often older and more weathered rustic versions of grade 1. They may have more rounded waney edges, cracks in the ends, and the hardwoods can be bowed along the length, especially in the case of the Dutch oak.
3rd grade
Most likely to be irregular, weathered, battered, cracked, damaged, with some decay, or bowed etc.... but not necessarily all at the same time ! Despite all this, they may last for ages, with some people particularly liking their battered and world weary appearance.

Visit us ! Nothing beats seeing the railway sleepers in the flesh !

Can I clean creosote off railway sleepers ? and other questions ....

Q1. We have got railway sleepers that we want to make into decking however they are covered in years of railway muck - is there a product we can use to clean this mixture of oil and muck off? Do you sell it etc?
Cleaning up sleepers depends on what's on them. If 'railway muck' is merely airbourne grime and dust, then scrubbing with soapy water & detergent / or wirebrushing / or power jetwashing should nicely do the job. If it's some surface diesel / oil that has dripped down from an engine, then detergent or an oil 'dissolver' will deal with it. If you're talking about internal tar and creosote from the original treatment of the timber, then there's virtually nothing you can do, especially if it's continuing to ooze from within. Hot weather tends to draw the creosote and tar to the surface, where it fluctuates between being hard or sticky in various temperatures. Not nice or recommended for decking, especially British pine railway sleepers.

Q2. I have had my garden landscaped and used old railway sleepers around the perimeter and for seating. Whenever it is warm and sunny some of the sleepers ooze tar. My young children keep getting covered in the oily mess much to the disdain of my wife. I have tried a high pressure jet hose on the sleepers but this has had no effect. Can you help?
Unfortunately your story is all too familiar. There are only three effective options, I'm afraid.
1) If the oozy tar is unacceptable, (very understandable), remove the sleepers. There's nothing effective you can do to stop them leaking.
2) Replace them with non-creosote treated sleepers, whether new or used. Landscapers should not really be using the old GB pine sleepers, due to their unpleasant leaking. The best used sleeper would be the African Azobe, that is an untreated (and needs no treatment) tropical hardwood, that is very dense, and is sometimes used underwater, or for lock gates etc.. Alternatively new pressure treated Baltic / Scottish pine (treated with an environmentally child friendly treatment) or new untreated French oak. We can help you chose if you need.

3) Clad the existing sleepers with some kind of timber, or material that covers up the tar

Q3. I currently have about 15 sleepers (Used British Pine) for a long row of 5 steps leading from the patio onto the grass. Trouble is, I keep getting tar weeping from some of them, and over the past couple of weeks it just got worse and worse. I was wondering if you knew of anything I could use to stop the tar from weeping; I would like to keep the ‘’used’ look, but would personally be happy for a quick fix which I could do until I re-arrange the garden and order something without tar or creosote.2
See above. This type of question is the one we receive most. (several times a week).

Q4. Our local garden centre staff told me they didn't supply used sleepers anymore as they were not allowed to due to the oil thats soaked in to them.
Tell them to get their facts right !

VOTE OF CONFIDENCE!

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